I have a manual 2002 VW Golf with approx. 145,000 miles on it. This is my first tune-up (I know, I know!) I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at around 120k and I replaced my battery at around 110k. I do regular oil changes.
Some other things I need:
-New catalytic converter (but it's so expensive so that might have to wait.)
-My window fell into the door panel and according to the dealership, my car is 6 months past the recall allowance for that defective part and they want to charge me $380 +tax. I call shenanigans.
Thanks for the help.How much should a tune-up cost?A tune up is minor repair and can be done easily with just a few tools readily available from any hardware store. The price of spark plugs range from 1.50-10.00 per cylinder depending on how much performance you would like. Spark plug wires cost from 50-150.00 once again depending on performance needs. If you have coil packs or a distributor the cost will vary from 10-100.00. The O2 sensor is usually about 20-50.00. The average person can get away with the regular parts resulting in a tune up cost of 100-200 dollars taking about 1-3 hours to complete.
The local Advance Auto and Autozones are your friends!How much should a tune-up cost?What i do is call all the nearest shops around me and get quotes on whatever i need done, then choose the one with the lower labor rate. Hope this helps!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
What would cause my car to lose power?
Ok I already know that my 91 VW Jetta GL needs an exhaust manifold replaced, and I am wondering if that would cause it to lose power at 2500 rpms? It will be going just fine then if I let it get above or at 2500 rpms it just bogs down, and will not gain speed no matter how much gas I give it, the CEL comes on most times when this happens, but if I push the clutch in and rev it past 2500 to like 3000 rpms the light goes off, but still lacks power. I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleaned intake, ran injector cleaner, changed fuel filter. I even replaced the catalytic converter, to no avail. I just bought car the car, and drove it 75 miles to get home, and this problem never arose, it did surge a little but never lost power like this. If any one can give me a few things to look into I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What would cause my car to lose power?It could be your Crankshaft sensor%26quot;..it happened to me and drove me crazy
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What would cause my car to lose power?It could be your Crankshaft sensor%26quot;..it happened to me and drove me crazy
What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?
Ok I already know that my 91 VW Jetta GL needs an exhaust manifold replaced, and I am wondering if that would cause it to lose power at 2500 rpms? It will be going just fine then if I let it get above or at 2500 rpms it just bogs down, and will not gain speed no matter how much gas I give it, the CEL comes on most times when this happens, but if I push the clutch in and rev it past 2500 to like 3000 rpms the light goes off, but still lacks power. I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleaned intake, ran injector cleaner, changed fuel filter. I even replaced the catalytic converter, to no avail. I just bought car the car, and drove it 75 miles to get home, and this problem never arose, it did surge a little but never lost power like this. If any one can give me a few things to look into I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Good Jokes, Cars, and Great Sex all depend on Proper timing.
If you haven't timed your car then do so now.
To time the 91 you have to have the engine up to temp.
then using a timing light on number one plug.
unplug the CTS sensor (blue one on the side of the head upper water outlet flange) and rev the engie 3 times over 3000 rmp.
Holding it steady at 2250 RPM, then adjust the timing to 6degrees BTDC. (there is a timing hole in the transmission housing.
I would then replace the CTS sensor (cheap at Napa ) as that is known to cause issues. If you haven't replace the fuel filter now would be a good time to do it.
If you head a whine from the rear passenger side wheel arch when this happens, then you have a restriction in the fuel as in the in-tank fuel pump (also known as the fuel-transfer-pump) is going out or gone out, and causing a restriction to the main pump.
This year of jetta has 3 fuel pumps one in-tank, that feeds to the primary.
I would also highly suggest that you remove the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to the fuel pressure regulator (on the rear of the throttle body) and see if there is raw gas in it. That is gas that drips out of the hose, if there is then the Fuel pressure regulator is bad.
I would also strongly recommend that you replace all the vacuum hoses on the car as any slight leak causes them to act the ***.
Lastly, make sure that the big black hose from the air filter box to the throttle body is not wholed, and that it is tight to the throttle body and to the airbox.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?It's the manifold. Why did you throw parts at it, when you know it is the manifold? Also, you should have had the seller have the manifold repaired/replaced prior to purchase.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I'd take it to a mechanicWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?You already know it needs an exhaust manifold? How do you know this. I think you are mistaken or foolish. Have you had the CEL scanned for a code????? Yeah, there is a lot of data missing here. Still could be other stuff.
Timing, Mass Airflow Sensor, Badd parts in the ignition(out of the box or installed poorly) Plugged muffler from a FAILED catalytic converter.
Time to go to a shop. Pretty much any shop can work on these so skip the VW Dealer.
Jack, 2003 GLI, VW since 1959, ASE Cert Auto Tech since 1978What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I think it's fairly obvious why the previous owner sold it , the last time I heard of this , the cam belt had been replaced three teeth out from where it should have been, why do you think the exhaust manifold needs replacing? any problem with it would be very obviousWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Your VW is to old, visit mechanic.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Wow Justin!! Without more info about the motor, type of fuel injection, etc, I would not be able to be of much help.
However, the bogging down could be caused by a fuel restriction of sorts. In SA, we had the mk2 in 91 still and they came with motronic injection. Low fuel pressure compared to the older K jetronic system.
My suggestion would be to get it to a good honest mechanic and let him take a look. To many things have been replaced now and nothing has changed. The manifold won't affect it as drastically as this.
Standing does a fuel injection no good at all and they are difficult to understand if you are not experienced..
Good luck.
hedley.suckow@gmail.com
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Good Jokes, Cars, and Great Sex all depend on Proper timing.
If you haven't timed your car then do so now.
To time the 91 you have to have the engine up to temp.
then using a timing light on number one plug.
unplug the CTS sensor (blue one on the side of the head upper water outlet flange) and rev the engie 3 times over 3000 rmp.
Holding it steady at 2250 RPM, then adjust the timing to 6degrees BTDC. (there is a timing hole in the transmission housing.
I would then replace the CTS sensor (cheap at Napa ) as that is known to cause issues. If you haven't replace the fuel filter now would be a good time to do it.
If you head a whine from the rear passenger side wheel arch when this happens, then you have a restriction in the fuel as in the in-tank fuel pump (also known as the fuel-transfer-pump) is going out or gone out, and causing a restriction to the main pump.
This year of jetta has 3 fuel pumps one in-tank, that feeds to the primary.
I would also highly suggest that you remove the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to the fuel pressure regulator (on the rear of the throttle body) and see if there is raw gas in it. That is gas that drips out of the hose, if there is then the Fuel pressure regulator is bad.
I would also strongly recommend that you replace all the vacuum hoses on the car as any slight leak causes them to act the ***.
Lastly, make sure that the big black hose from the air filter box to the throttle body is not wholed, and that it is tight to the throttle body and to the airbox.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?It's the manifold. Why did you throw parts at it, when you know it is the manifold? Also, you should have had the seller have the manifold repaired/replaced prior to purchase.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I'd take it to a mechanicWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?You already know it needs an exhaust manifold? How do you know this. I think you are mistaken or foolish. Have you had the CEL scanned for a code????? Yeah, there is a lot of data missing here. Still could be other stuff.
Timing, Mass Airflow Sensor, Badd parts in the ignition(out of the box or installed poorly) Plugged muffler from a FAILED catalytic converter.
Time to go to a shop. Pretty much any shop can work on these so skip the VW Dealer.
Jack, 2003 GLI, VW since 1959, ASE Cert Auto Tech since 1978What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I think it's fairly obvious why the previous owner sold it , the last time I heard of this , the cam belt had been replaced three teeth out from where it should have been, why do you think the exhaust manifold needs replacing? any problem with it would be very obviousWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Your VW is to old, visit mechanic.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Wow Justin!! Without more info about the motor, type of fuel injection, etc, I would not be able to be of much help.
However, the bogging down could be caused by a fuel restriction of sorts. In SA, we had the mk2 in 91 still and they came with motronic injection. Low fuel pressure compared to the older K jetronic system.
My suggestion would be to get it to a good honest mechanic and let him take a look. To many things have been replaced now and nothing has changed. The manifold won't affect it as drastically as this.
Standing does a fuel injection no good at all and they are difficult to understand if you are not experienced..
Good luck.
hedley.suckow@gmail.com
Smog test Question?
I have a 2005 model car, it's first smog check is due soon, so I called the smog check place and they told me it will be $60 plus parts,I told them the car has been serviced reguarly and has only 9000 miles on it, what parts do I need for a smog check.
They told me I need several parts but not to worry as they have them all in stock for my car, so I asked what parts I would need and how much will they cost.
The man said that I will need a new Catalytic converter and I will need all the filters and oil changed plus several other micelanious parts that should not cost more than $20 but they could not say for sure until they inspect the vehicle, I told him the oil and filter were changed less than a week ago and he replied that it needs to be changed again for a smog check or it will fail, I also need a new Catalytic converter, he said it should be changed every 6 months and it has not been changed since the car was new 18 months ago.He also said I need new spark plugs etc. am I being rSmog test Question?go somewhere else. You dont need any parts for smog check. Its a good idea to to get a oil change but since you already did it you dont need to do it agian. Catalytic converter alone will cost way more than $20. Iv got a car with 130,000 miles with the orginal catalytic converter so I doubt yours need to be changed. Call another place to get your smog check done.Smog test Question?the guy is blowing smoke up your a s s to get as much money out of you as possible. go to a different shop and don't get any part put on it you don't need anything replaced unless its going bad.Smog test Question?too longSmog test Question?THE GUY IS RIPPING YOU OFF. TAKE THE CAR SOMEPLACE ELSESmog test Question?check out other placesSmog test Question?SCAM ALERT. Keep shopping elswhere.
They told me I need several parts but not to worry as they have them all in stock for my car, so I asked what parts I would need and how much will they cost.
The man said that I will need a new Catalytic converter and I will need all the filters and oil changed plus several other micelanious parts that should not cost more than $20 but they could not say for sure until they inspect the vehicle, I told him the oil and filter were changed less than a week ago and he replied that it needs to be changed again for a smog check or it will fail, I also need a new Catalytic converter, he said it should be changed every 6 months and it has not been changed since the car was new 18 months ago.He also said I need new spark plugs etc. am I being rSmog test Question?go somewhere else. You dont need any parts for smog check. Its a good idea to to get a oil change but since you already did it you dont need to do it agian. Catalytic converter alone will cost way more than $20. Iv got a car with 130,000 miles with the orginal catalytic converter so I doubt yours need to be changed. Call another place to get your smog check done.Smog test Question?the guy is blowing smoke up your a s s to get as much money out of you as possible. go to a different shop and don't get any part put on it you don't need anything replaced unless its going bad.Smog test Question?too longSmog test Question?THE GUY IS RIPPING YOU OFF. TAKE THE CAR SOMEPLACE ELSESmog test Question?check out other placesSmog test Question?SCAM ALERT. Keep shopping elswhere.
How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?
I have just acquired a 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
Researching around, I have learned that these American-spec models were very unfavorable due to U.S. emission standards.
A few questions...
Can I replace the current carberater with one that will yeild higher performance?
Could I easily add/make a better air intake (like a K%26amp;N cone filter etc.)?
Would removing the Catalytic Converter be worth it?
Can I change the compression ratio from 7.5:1 to 8:1(english standard)?
The current issue with the car is the main bearings. Any information, help, or recommendations would be appreciated.
Don't tell me to junk it or sell it. I know what I am getting into.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?Kas Kasner is the person who can get the most out of a Triumph engine. Check his website out:
http://www.kaskastner.com/
This will get you started.
I would keep your compression the same and research a small supercharger system for your car.
Headers of course.
This site can help you with this:
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Links.htm
http://www.visn2.com/1500_Performace_Reb
I envy you man, you'll have a blast with this.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/pHow can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?You could switch to a Weber 32/36 DGV carb which if nothing else will be more reliable than the crappy Solex carb the car came with. I think these are still made - it's been a while since I was active in the British automotive relics scene.
Headers and a good exhaust are also easy bolt-on upgrades.
The extreme of course would be to find a GT-6 with a good chassis and motor, take the body off and bolt your Spit body onto the GT-6 frame. Then you get a nice in-line 6 cylinder and a better rear suspension.
Or you can do a Mazda Rotary Engine conversion as was done by Grassroots Motorsport magazine about a dozen years ago.
At any rate Moss Motors is the king of old British car performance and replacement parts in the U.S. Their on-line catalog should get you started.cute myspace Cats
Researching around, I have learned that these American-spec models were very unfavorable due to U.S. emission standards.
A few questions...
Can I replace the current carberater with one that will yeild higher performance?
Could I easily add/make a better air intake (like a K%26amp;N cone filter etc.)?
Would removing the Catalytic Converter be worth it?
Can I change the compression ratio from 7.5:1 to 8:1(english standard)?
The current issue with the car is the main bearings. Any information, help, or recommendations would be appreciated.
Don't tell me to junk it or sell it. I know what I am getting into.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?Kas Kasner is the person who can get the most out of a Triumph engine. Check his website out:
http://www.kaskastner.com/
This will get you started.
I would keep your compression the same and research a small supercharger system for your car.
Headers of course.
This site can help you with this:
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Links.htm
http://www.visn2.com/1500_Performace_Reb
I envy you man, you'll have a blast with this.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/pHow can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?You could switch to a Weber 32/36 DGV carb which if nothing else will be more reliable than the crappy Solex carb the car came with. I think these are still made - it's been a while since I was active in the British automotive relics scene.
Headers and a good exhaust are also easy bolt-on upgrades.
The extreme of course would be to find a GT-6 with a good chassis and motor, take the body off and bolt your Spit body onto the GT-6 frame. Then you get a nice in-line 6 cylinder and a better rear suspension.
Or you can do a Mazda Rotary Engine conversion as was done by Grassroots Motorsport magazine about a dozen years ago.
At any rate Moss Motors is the king of old British car performance and replacement parts in the U.S. Their on-line catalog should get you started.
I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?
It started a little over a month ago, it just started cutting out, i first ran some lucus fuel treatment in it thinking maybe my injectors were dirty, then i put new plugs and wires in it, still had the same problem, well, I then went to the timing and changed the timing belt, still, so i had o'riellys test the ignition module, they said it was good, so i replaced, the crank position sensor, the coil pack, and still have the same problem. I loosened the catalytic converter, and that didnt help, then i changed the O2 sensor and still no help, i have changed and fuel filter and tested my fuel pressure, fuel pressure is good, so i have no idea were to check next, I rented a scan tool from O'riellys, and that was the reason i changed to O2 sensor, but it didnt say anything else. I have no idea were to start next, can anybody help?I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?Try adding a thing of dry gas or gasline antifreeze to the tank the next time you fill up.
I owned an early 90's escort that would sputter and stop and slow down anytime the weather was cool/cold or damp/wet. Piece of American made crap.
Anyway, adding a bottle of gasline antifreeze stopped the problems until I finally blew the damn thing up.
Good luckI have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?try changing out the idle air intake valve
about 10 bucks
always start small then work your way up
if this is bad it will cause you car to just cut out at lights etc...I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?check for bad ground wires around the battery area.they become corroded and damage . look for cracked air intake hose. remove idle speed control valve and look for carbon deposit build-up. if the inside shaft is shiney on one side,it is binding( replace it)I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?Need a little more info. Has the idle control sensor been replaced on it? It sounds like you are going to have a new car by the time your done. Two other things that could be causing this are a bad camshaft or a clogged catalytic converter. It sounds like you've replaced about everything else on it.
I owned an early 90's escort that would sputter and stop and slow down anytime the weather was cool/cold or damp/wet. Piece of American made crap.
Anyway, adding a bottle of gasline antifreeze stopped the problems until I finally blew the damn thing up.
Good luckI have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?try changing out the idle air intake valve
about 10 bucks
always start small then work your way up
if this is bad it will cause you car to just cut out at lights etc...I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?check for bad ground wires around the battery area.they become corroded and damage . look for cracked air intake hose. remove idle speed control valve and look for carbon deposit build-up. if the inside shaft is shiney on one side,it is binding( replace it)I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?Need a little more info. Has the idle control sensor been replaced on it? It sounds like you are going to have a new car by the time your done. Two other things that could be causing this are a bad camshaft or a clogged catalytic converter. It sounds like you've replaced about everything else on it.
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?
1998 Cadillac 125,000 miles ( NOTE: I changed the Platinum sparkplugs at 100,000 miles and the car runs very smooth, no rough idling, or misfires, no other error codes). Also there is no funny smell. Someone told me that if I smell fuel or a rotten egg smell, then the cat is bad for sure.
Only thing about this car.... when I drive my car (2002 Cadillac), the instant reading on the MPG will go from 25 MPG to 70 almost instantly when I let off the gas. BUT on my wife's car ( the one with the error code) when I let off the gas it take about 3 or 4 seconds for it to go from 25 MPG to 70. And same thing when I press on the gas... a 3 second delay. Maybe this is normal but I just thought I would mention it in case it is relevant.
About 50 days ago this error code came on. This was about 5 days after my wife backed the car into a snow bank. After reading up on it, I was so sure my wife damaged the muffler or tail pipe. I did not see anything, so figured it could be a fluke. I used the scan tool to clear the error code and it was fine for about 50 days. Now the code came up again.So what I am thinking is that for the most part it is barely running within the limits, but once in a blue moon it fall out of specs and causes the %26quot;check engine soon%26quot; P0420 code to come up. So I am tempted to change the o2 sensors in front and back of the catalytic converter.
BTW I did clear the code again and it's been fine for 3 days. BUT I preparing myself for it to pop up again and will need to take care of it.
1) Is this hard to do ? I am just concerned that the heat had rusted the threads together and when I try to remove the Sensor, the treads will strip. Is this a problem ? I know I need to warm up the engine first to get the exhaust warm, but not too hot.
2) what about the converter ? Is this hard to change ? I am pretty sure the bolts will break, but i am wondering about the %26quot;hose clamp%26quot; in the back. How do I make sure that is sealed when I put the new one on ? Is there a gasket on back part ? is it funneled so I just put the cat pipe into the opening of the exhaust pipe then just clamp it with the %26quot;hose%26quot; type clamp ?
I do work on cars, but it is mostly water pumps, brakes, alternators, CV axles, etc...
Is there a way to check and see if the sensors are working ? I have a voltmeter.
Also, what about the O2 sensors that are on the exhaust manifold.. do I change those too, or should I change the 2 that are on each side of the catalytic converter ?
One more question... Is this the same as changing a sparkplug ? just unplug the wire, and replace sensor, then plug wire back in ? No need to reprogram the PCU or have it %26quot;learn%26quot; the new readings ?P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?Alright there are a lot of questions here u hope i get them all. first. you need a new cat. sorry man no way around it. if it was the sensors then a sensor code would come up. unless so how all the o2 sensors went bad a the same time and if that was the case go buy a lottery ticket and u will be rich. your cat probably isn't too terrible if it takes a while for the light to come on, so feel free to try and get away with it as long as you can. the computer has to have three cases were the fault to happen in 3 differnt drive cycles for the light to come on.
O2 sensors are very easy to replace. u need a 22 mm wrench and that is about it. disconnect it and unscrew it. reverse to install. then ur done. no computers or anything. you can check o2 sensors with a volt meter but it wont tell ya much because the voltage is so low and you wont know what number it should be reading you need a scanner.
changing the cat shouldn't be to bad. i use the torch all the time with exhaust. get the metal around the bolt cherry red and remove the bolt. working it back and forth to loosen rust. if you don't have a torch or they just brake then drill out the bolt and use a nut and bolt to put it back together if it is nut and bolted to begin with then that's great brake it or just take it apart at for the other end the cat should slid over or in the exhaust tipe then you clamp it. put you hand over the tail pipe if it blows you hand off after a little then it is good. if it doesn't then plug it and see were it is leaking from.P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?This will not be of any use for your present problem but then it may! Aprox 18 years ago in the UK bosch brought out platinum plugs. a REP wanted me to use them in my garage when weserviced a car,I tried a set in my 1961 land rover,BRILL better startng slight better mpg .So i started using them for S/ing.
Afew weeks later a call from a V/good customer saying car would not start(p/plugs used on last service) Igrabed some plugs and went out to him.changed the plugs (NON plat werenow put in ) the car started first time. this happend several times over the next few months.(different cars).
A bosch plug that had been removed was was then looked at i cut the earth prong off and the platinum electrode could then beseen .it had worn back so that the gap was 2 or 3 times the amount it should be!! no codes were on cars then so !!!!???
Only thing about this car.... when I drive my car (2002 Cadillac), the instant reading on the MPG will go from 25 MPG to 70 almost instantly when I let off the gas. BUT on my wife's car ( the one with the error code) when I let off the gas it take about 3 or 4 seconds for it to go from 25 MPG to 70. And same thing when I press on the gas... a 3 second delay. Maybe this is normal but I just thought I would mention it in case it is relevant.
About 50 days ago this error code came on. This was about 5 days after my wife backed the car into a snow bank. After reading up on it, I was so sure my wife damaged the muffler or tail pipe. I did not see anything, so figured it could be a fluke. I used the scan tool to clear the error code and it was fine for about 50 days. Now the code came up again.So what I am thinking is that for the most part it is barely running within the limits, but once in a blue moon it fall out of specs and causes the %26quot;check engine soon%26quot; P0420 code to come up. So I am tempted to change the o2 sensors in front and back of the catalytic converter.
BTW I did clear the code again and it's been fine for 3 days. BUT I preparing myself for it to pop up again and will need to take care of it.
1) Is this hard to do ? I am just concerned that the heat had rusted the threads together and when I try to remove the Sensor, the treads will strip. Is this a problem ? I know I need to warm up the engine first to get the exhaust warm, but not too hot.
2) what about the converter ? Is this hard to change ? I am pretty sure the bolts will break, but i am wondering about the %26quot;hose clamp%26quot; in the back. How do I make sure that is sealed when I put the new one on ? Is there a gasket on back part ? is it funneled so I just put the cat pipe into the opening of the exhaust pipe then just clamp it with the %26quot;hose%26quot; type clamp ?
I do work on cars, but it is mostly water pumps, brakes, alternators, CV axles, etc...
Is there a way to check and see if the sensors are working ? I have a voltmeter.
Also, what about the O2 sensors that are on the exhaust manifold.. do I change those too, or should I change the 2 that are on each side of the catalytic converter ?
One more question... Is this the same as changing a sparkplug ? just unplug the wire, and replace sensor, then plug wire back in ? No need to reprogram the PCU or have it %26quot;learn%26quot; the new readings ?P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?Alright there are a lot of questions here u hope i get them all. first. you need a new cat. sorry man no way around it. if it was the sensors then a sensor code would come up. unless so how all the o2 sensors went bad a the same time and if that was the case go buy a lottery ticket and u will be rich. your cat probably isn't too terrible if it takes a while for the light to come on, so feel free to try and get away with it as long as you can. the computer has to have three cases were the fault to happen in 3 differnt drive cycles for the light to come on.
O2 sensors are very easy to replace. u need a 22 mm wrench and that is about it. disconnect it and unscrew it. reverse to install. then ur done. no computers or anything. you can check o2 sensors with a volt meter but it wont tell ya much because the voltage is so low and you wont know what number it should be reading you need a scanner.
changing the cat shouldn't be to bad. i use the torch all the time with exhaust. get the metal around the bolt cherry red and remove the bolt. working it back and forth to loosen rust. if you don't have a torch or they just brake then drill out the bolt and use a nut and bolt to put it back together if it is nut and bolted to begin with then that's great brake it or just take it apart at for the other end the cat should slid over or in the exhaust tipe then you clamp it. put you hand over the tail pipe if it blows you hand off after a little then it is good. if it doesn't then plug it and see were it is leaking from.P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?This will not be of any use for your present problem but then it may! Aprox 18 years ago in the UK bosch brought out platinum plugs. a REP wanted me to use them in my garage when weserviced a car,I tried a set in my 1961 land rover,BRILL better startng slight better mpg .So i started using them for S/ing.
Afew weeks later a call from a V/good customer saying car would not start(p/plugs used on last service) Igrabed some plugs and went out to him.changed the plugs (NON plat werenow put in ) the car started first time. this happend several times over the next few months.(different cars).
A bosch plug that had been removed was was then looked at i cut the earth prong off and the platinum electrode could then beseen .it had worn back so that the gap was 2 or 3 times the amount it should be!! no codes were on cars then so !!!!???
Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?
I am currently driving a 2002 Mazda Protege ES. I love my car but within the past year, I have spent a lot of money to keep it running. More than it's worth. I had the ignition coils changed; tires; battery; brakes and catalytic converter replaced. The repairs exceeded the value of the car. I am now old that my flywheel is damaged and at over 110,000mi I need to keep an eye on the clutch. I should mention that the car has been in two accidents-- rear-ended at 25mph by a teenager on the phone; and then it spun out on the highway-- propped up on the curb and the back end hit the concrete barrier. After both incidents the car was repaired and the frame straightened. I question how well though because the rear-wheels cannot be aligned properly.
I came across this 2004 Mazda 3s for sale. The car has never been involved in an accident; is a one owner and looks fairly clean-- both mechanically as well as cosmetically. The car as 80,000 mi on it but with a trade, the dealer only wants $4000. out of pocket from me. The car also comes with a warranty. I am currently having it checked out by a mechanic.
Question is...
Would you keep the Protege or get the Mazda 3? I honestly would feel safer in the Mazda 3 but after dumping all that money in the Protege I would hate to get rid of it. But like I said the flywheel is damaged and I don't know what else might be going wrong with it...Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?I would move on from the Protege, it sounds like it has protected the occupants through the years and has made it through many %26quot;battles%26quot;. I would not ask more from the car at this point. The 3 is a better car and has an engineered service life of 10 years or 275,000 miles before the owner has to dump money into the car to keep it running. I would buy it.
Best.Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?If it's comes with warranty and you like it. Go for it! I have 123k miles on my and the engine is so smooth. :). I love that car. What color? Check site for more info.
Www.mazda3forums.com
how much is you car worth? What's the retail price on the Mazda 3 without a trade? You might be better of selling the protege. Might get a bit more money.
I came across this 2004 Mazda 3s for sale. The car has never been involved in an accident; is a one owner and looks fairly clean-- both mechanically as well as cosmetically. The car as 80,000 mi on it but with a trade, the dealer only wants $4000. out of pocket from me. The car also comes with a warranty. I am currently having it checked out by a mechanic.
Question is...
Would you keep the Protege or get the Mazda 3? I honestly would feel safer in the Mazda 3 but after dumping all that money in the Protege I would hate to get rid of it. But like I said the flywheel is damaged and I don't know what else might be going wrong with it...Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?I would move on from the Protege, it sounds like it has protected the occupants through the years and has made it through many %26quot;battles%26quot;. I would not ask more from the car at this point. The 3 is a better car and has an engineered service life of 10 years or 275,000 miles before the owner has to dump money into the car to keep it running. I would buy it.
Best.Trade the Protege in for a Mazda 3s?If it's comes with warranty and you like it. Go for it! I have 123k miles on my and the engine is so smooth. :). I love that car. What color? Check site for more info.
Www.mazda3forums.com
how much is you car worth? What's the retail price on the Mazda 3 without a trade? You might be better of selling the protege. Might get a bit more money.
Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?
I am currently driving a 2002 Mazda Protege ES. I love my car but within the past year, I have spent a lot of money to keep it running. More than it's worth. I had the ignition coils changed; tires; battery; brakes and catalytic converter replaced. The repairs exceeded the value of the car. I am now old that my flywheel is damaged and at over 110,000mi I need to keep an eye on the clutch. I should mention that the car has been in two accidents-- rear-ended at 25mph by a teenager on the phone; and then it spun out on the highway-- propped up on the curb and the back end hit the concrete barrier. After both incidents the car was repaired and the frame straightened. I question how well though because the rear-wheels cannot be aligned properly.
I came across this 2004 Mazda 3s for sale. The car has never been involved in an accident; is a one owner and looks fairly clean-- both mechanically as well as cosmetically. The car as 80,000 mi on it but with a trade, the dealer only wants $4000. out of pocket from me. The car also comes with a warranty. I am currently having it checked out by a mechanic.
Question is...
Would you keep the Protege or get the Mazda 3? I honestly would feel safer in the Mazda 3 but after dumping all that money in the Protege I would hate to get rid of it. But like I said the flywheel is damaged and I don't know what else might be going wrong with it...Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?Buy the 3. They are great cars. Sounds like you are doing everything right to make sure the car is worth purchasing.
If it wasn't for the two wrecks and the frame issues with the alignment I'd tell you to keep the Protege. None of the repairs are unusual for a car with that many miles and that age. You'll be buying tires and a battery and brakes for the 3 soon enough. All cars require maintenance it's part of owning a car.Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?I say find an after hours mechanic you can trust and keep the protege.
I made a living for more than a dozen years off cars like yours where people fixed nearly everything and then traded it in because they irrationally feared more repairs.
No matter what happens from here on out, its going to be cheaper to keep what you have.
I came across this 2004 Mazda 3s for sale. The car has never been involved in an accident; is a one owner and looks fairly clean-- both mechanically as well as cosmetically. The car as 80,000 mi on it but with a trade, the dealer only wants $4000. out of pocket from me. The car also comes with a warranty. I am currently having it checked out by a mechanic.
Question is...
Would you keep the Protege or get the Mazda 3? I honestly would feel safer in the Mazda 3 but after dumping all that money in the Protege I would hate to get rid of it. But like I said the flywheel is damaged and I don't know what else might be going wrong with it...Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?Buy the 3. They are great cars. Sounds like you are doing everything right to make sure the car is worth purchasing.
If it wasn't for the two wrecks and the frame issues with the alignment I'd tell you to keep the Protege. None of the repairs are unusual for a car with that many miles and that age. You'll be buying tires and a battery and brakes for the 3 soon enough. All cars require maintenance it's part of owning a car.Should I keep the Mazda Protege or get the Mazda 3?I say find an after hours mechanic you can trust and keep the protege.
I made a living for more than a dozen years off cars like yours where people fixed nearly everything and then traded it in because they irrationally feared more repairs.
No matter what happens from here on out, its going to be cheaper to keep what you have.
2001 Nissan Pathfinder Check Engine Light "ON"?
Check engine light is on. According to code catalytic converters need to be changed. I have bought the online, exact fit, changed them, turned off light. It came back on saying it needs a tune up. Changed spark plugs, disconnected battery, light is still on. Anyone else had that problem. Some say the EMC computer needs rebooting. If that's the case how much does it cost. Any suggestions would help2001 Nissan Pathfinder Check Engine Light %26quot;ON%26quot;?there may be a reprogram for the computer, its gonna cost about 100 bucks from nissan to have done2001 Nissan Pathfinder Check Engine Light %26quot;ON%26quot;?If the light is still on, it's still showing a code. What's the new code for?2001 Nissan Pathfinder Check Engine Light %26quot;ON%26quot;?you might look at replacing the O2 sensors.2001 Nissan Pathfinder Check Engine Light %26quot;ON%26quot;?go to a nissan dealer they probably fix itdoes any ram fit on my computer rodents
How much can I expect to receive for my Peugeot 206 as a part ex-change?
I have a Y reg (2001) 3 door Peugeot 206 1.1 lx.
Mechanically, it is in good working order, I've had new brakes in the past 12 months, and a full set of tyres, a catalytic converter and full exhaust about 18months-2 years ago, I also had a new clutch about 6 months ago. I just want a newer car, particularly one with 5 doors. The car is 9 years old now and the longer I leave it, the less I will get for it when I come to upgrading.
The mileage is 78,000 with a part service history due to the previous owners. The interior of the car is in good condition, but on the exterior, there is a small dent and a chip in the paint which has rusted both on the front left wing from a bump I had last year. There are also a few slight dents in the door panels from inconsiderate people on car parks. I have owned this car for 3 and a half years, I have only recently finished paying for it. How much could I expect for it as a part ex?How much can I expect to receive for my Peugeot 206 as a part ex-change?Depends what you trade it in against, but I'd hope for at least 1,000.
From Parkers website, on a 2001/Y 1.1LX 5 dr.
Original Price 8,940
Independent Dealer 1,710
Private Good 1,385
Private Poor 785
Part Exchange 1,025How much can I expect to receive for my Peugeot 206 as a part ex-change?250 - 500 perhaps ?
Mechanically, it is in good working order, I've had new brakes in the past 12 months, and a full set of tyres, a catalytic converter and full exhaust about 18months-2 years ago, I also had a new clutch about 6 months ago. I just want a newer car, particularly one with 5 doors. The car is 9 years old now and the longer I leave it, the less I will get for it when I come to upgrading.
The mileage is 78,000 with a part service history due to the previous owners. The interior of the car is in good condition, but on the exterior, there is a small dent and a chip in the paint which has rusted both on the front left wing from a bump I had last year. There are also a few slight dents in the door panels from inconsiderate people on car parks. I have owned this car for 3 and a half years, I have only recently finished paying for it. How much could I expect for it as a part ex?How much can I expect to receive for my Peugeot 206 as a part ex-change?Depends what you trade it in against, but I'd hope for at least 1,000.
From Parkers website, on a 2001/Y 1.1LX 5 dr.
Original Price 8,940
Independent Dealer 1,710
Private Good 1,385
Private Poor 785
Part Exchange 1,025How much can I expect to receive for my Peugeot 206 as a part ex-change?250 - 500 perhaps ?
I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?
my cars check engine light came on once again. before, my stepdad fixed the oxygen sensor and the light went off for about a month. i took it back to autozone the other day and they are of no help whatsoever. i have asked the same question multiple times, and get no answer. how do you fix an engine misfire?? the spark plugs have been changed, new oxygen sensor, catalytic converters are almost brand new. someone please help, thank you.
oh and the car is a 97 mercury sableI need a mechanics help-engine misfire?Might help to recheck gap on plugs and make sure no plugs have worked loose,sometimes this happens,especially if the engine was warm when installed and cools down.Also check to see plug wires are properly seated on the plugs and cap.I am assuming your car has a rotor button and distributor cap like my 96 F150. Maybe the rotor button is worn or the cap has a crack in it.Also check to see if there is any movement in the distributor shaft.If there is loose motion that could be the problem as well.My truck has 3 oxygen sensors,2 have been changed,but they never made the engine misfire.Hope this might help some.Also check your plugs to make sure one was not cracked installing.Can get brand new plugs and wires and one might be bad.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?are you sure its a misfire?, check things like vacuum hoses, idle air valves, throttle position sensor (if applicable) go to a shop and get them to print out a %26quot;pin voltage resistance diagnostics chart%26quot; for all these items and check themI need a mechanics help-engine misfire?If you are getting a misfire code, I would change the spark plug wires.
Those wires exist in an area that has water vapor, gasoline vapor, and oil vapor and all three of those things leads to deterioration of the wires allowing electrical seepage.
This is especially it may never have been done and the car is 13 years old.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?There are many things it can be. you may want to start with the more smaller easier things. spark plugs wires, distributor cap, rotor, check and set ignition timing if it's not set right. If the light is on you may want to find out what is setting off the light.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?Depending on how many miles the car has the plug wires might be breaking down, if it is worse in wet weather than that is a good start. List the mils, eng size and when you notice it the most. If you pull the plugs and look close you can see if one is more reach or lean, go to spark plugs online to see how it should look.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?a misfire is caused by so much more than just the plugs, but since you have replaced those, you are moving ahead. weak spark from a failing ignition coil, a worn distributor cap and rotor, a rich mixture or a lean mixture , a failing injector, a low compression in a cylinder. valves that dont close all the way, or seal......
a po300 is kind of tricky to resolve if you are going at it blind. you can look at the freeze frame data to see where the problem lies. this is all the information about what is going on at the point when the cpu stored that code.
oh and the car is a 97 mercury sableI need a mechanics help-engine misfire?Might help to recheck gap on plugs and make sure no plugs have worked loose,sometimes this happens,especially if the engine was warm when installed and cools down.Also check to see plug wires are properly seated on the plugs and cap.I am assuming your car has a rotor button and distributor cap like my 96 F150. Maybe the rotor button is worn or the cap has a crack in it.Also check to see if there is any movement in the distributor shaft.If there is loose motion that could be the problem as well.My truck has 3 oxygen sensors,2 have been changed,but they never made the engine misfire.Hope this might help some.Also check your plugs to make sure one was not cracked installing.Can get brand new plugs and wires and one might be bad.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?are you sure its a misfire?, check things like vacuum hoses, idle air valves, throttle position sensor (if applicable) go to a shop and get them to print out a %26quot;pin voltage resistance diagnostics chart%26quot; for all these items and check themI need a mechanics help-engine misfire?If you are getting a misfire code, I would change the spark plug wires.
Those wires exist in an area that has water vapor, gasoline vapor, and oil vapor and all three of those things leads to deterioration of the wires allowing electrical seepage.
This is especially it may never have been done and the car is 13 years old.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?There are many things it can be. you may want to start with the more smaller easier things. spark plugs wires, distributor cap, rotor, check and set ignition timing if it's not set right. If the light is on you may want to find out what is setting off the light.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?Depending on how many miles the car has the plug wires might be breaking down, if it is worse in wet weather than that is a good start. List the mils, eng size and when you notice it the most. If you pull the plugs and look close you can see if one is more reach or lean, go to spark plugs online to see how it should look.I need a mechanics help-engine misfire?a misfire is caused by so much more than just the plugs, but since you have replaced those, you are moving ahead. weak spark from a failing ignition coil, a worn distributor cap and rotor, a rich mixture or a lean mixture , a failing injector, a low compression in a cylinder. valves that dont close all the way, or seal......
a po300 is kind of tricky to resolve if you are going at it blind. you can look at the freeze frame data to see where the problem lies. this is all the information about what is going on at the point when the cpu stored that code.
How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?
Failed a 2nd time I just changed plugs wires air filter oilfilter and oil. Compression in cylinders checks out good could it be my catalytic converter?How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?Kimber?br>
Your question is more than just a little bit ambiguous.
E-mail me with the results of the test.
What were the emissions levels?
What was the ignition timing reported?
What equipment does your little car have? (Emissions components)
How many miles?
What transmission?
What model Toyota?
If you can give me this information, I will try to give you a direction to go for either repairs or diagnostics. There is an emissions calculator that helps me focus the direction of the diagnostics.
Happy MotoringHow do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?You can disconnect a vacuum line at the engine.If the engine stalls, try another one.Leave the one disconnected that does not allow the engine to stall.Another way would be to add about a quart of straight Alcohol to your gas tank that has only a couple of gallons of gas in it.Alcohol burns cleaner.How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?Just do something to the exhaust pipe while it is being tested, so that way it looks like it is very clean. I don't really know what..How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?Your question can not be answered... you obviously are
emitting too much of something such as high Hydrocarbons
or otherwise... and yes it may be your Cat Conv. but it is an
expensive guess...How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?Of course this question can be answered. If you changed your spark plugs, wires, then its not your electrical system. Those would be the only problems causing you to fail an emmisions test. If you haven't changed your exhaust, or had a new catalytic converter installed anytime soon (your car being an 89') it would most deffinetely, almost 100% sure it's that. Those filter out more then half of the emission junk. That's your best bet for sure! :)How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?what were the numbers on the failed test
Your question is more than just a little bit ambiguous.
E-mail me with the results of the test.
What were the emissions levels?
What was the ignition timing reported?
What equipment does your little car have? (Emissions components)
How many miles?
What transmission?
What model Toyota?
If you can give me this information, I will try to give you a direction to go for either repairs or diagnostics. There is an emissions calculator that helps me focus the direction of the diagnostics.
Happy MotoringHow do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?You can disconnect a vacuum line at the engine.If the engine stalls, try another one.Leave the one disconnected that does not allow the engine to stall.Another way would be to add about a quart of straight Alcohol to your gas tank that has only a couple of gallons of gas in it.Alcohol burns cleaner.How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?Just do something to the exhaust pipe while it is being tested, so that way it looks like it is very clean. I don't really know what..How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?Your question can not be answered... you obviously are
emitting too much of something such as high Hydrocarbons
or otherwise... and yes it may be your Cat Conv. but it is an
expensive guess...How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?Of course this question can be answered. If you changed your spark plugs, wires, then its not your electrical system. Those would be the only problems causing you to fail an emmisions test. If you haven't changed your exhaust, or had a new catalytic converter installed anytime soon (your car being an 89') it would most deffinetely, almost 100% sure it's that. Those filter out more then half of the emission junk. That's your best bet for sure! :)How do i get my 89 v6 toyota to pass emissions?what were the numbers on the failed test
How can I get my Honda CRV to start in the cold?
I have a honda CRV, that will NOT start when it has sat outside %26amp; the weather is cold. Sometimes when it is not too cold out (in the 40's) after some work the car will turn over but does this chug,chug,chug thing for up to a minute and then in a split second it's like the gas gets where it's supposed to and it revs and drives away as usual. When it's left outside below 30 degrees it will not start. When it is left in the garage it will start right up. The only thing tht has been done is the fuel filter has been changed. I'm at my second repair shop, now at the dealer. They can not find out what is wrong. They have said that the catalytic converter, MAP sensor?? and valves definitely need to be replaced, but even after relacing them they said it still might not work. Are catalytic converters that are going out temperature dependent? This non-starting in cold weather and ability to start right up in the garage has been repeated over and over by myself and repair shops.How can I get my Honda CRV to start in the cold?Have you tried fuel-line deicer? Do you let your tank get almost empty before you get gas? If she's not getting the gas in cool weather, moisture in the gasoline would be the first suspect. I suppose you could try a block heater, but that shouldn't be necessary unless the temperature is in the teens.How can I get my Honda CRV to start in the cold?i own a repair shop,and catalytic converters aren't cold affected,so that's not it,and the things you named off there wont make it not start in cold weather,id try installing a block heater in it,its goes in where the freeze plug goes,and keeps the temperature a little higher in the block,that will help it on the real cold nights,but as far as it not starting all the time when its cold,there's something else causing that,the repair shops have missed something,id have the computer scanned to see what all sensors besides the maf sensor would be bad on it,this might help you with finding out whats wrong with it,good luck,i hope this help,s.How can I get my Honda CRV to start in the cold?Unfortunately most mechanics these days could not troubleshoot their way out of a garage with the overhead door open. If the check engine light is not on, they are lost!
How old is this car? How many miles? I have seen Hondas that do this but have never found the cause. Have you ever tried this procedure: After cranking without starting for 5-10 seconds, turn the ignition off, then back to run about 10 times, then to start. Repeat this a few times and see if it starts. If it does, I would suspect a fuel injection system problem such as low fuel pressure during cranking (weak fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator stuck open) or the control unit (ECM) is not getting the crank input to tell it that the engine is being started. Also, engine temp sensor out of range telling the controller that the engine is already warm and does not need to enrich the mixture to start.
I'm assuming you have good spark plugs and wires and that all the obvious things have been checked and the battery cranks the engine over rapidly and is not lethargic. I have owned over 50 cars and have worked on most of them. All cars should be able to start down to 0 degrees F with no problem. Below 0, it depends. Even my old Diesels would start down to 0. If you can't resolve it, trade it in on a warm day. For the life of me I can't understand why no mechanics seem to know how the fuel injection system works on each individual car, as far as sequence of operation. It seems like all they can do is hook a computer up to it, read the codes, and replace parts. Very frustrating! I had a brand new Cavalier that would flood out every time it sat all day in the sun but no one could figure it out. On cloudy days it would start right up. Anyway, good luck.
How old is this car? How many miles? I have seen Hondas that do this but have never found the cause. Have you ever tried this procedure: After cranking without starting for 5-10 seconds, turn the ignition off, then back to run about 10 times, then to start. Repeat this a few times and see if it starts. If it does, I would suspect a fuel injection system problem such as low fuel pressure during cranking (weak fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator stuck open) or the control unit (ECM) is not getting the crank input to tell it that the engine is being started. Also, engine temp sensor out of range telling the controller that the engine is already warm and does not need to enrich the mixture to start.
I'm assuming you have good spark plugs and wires and that all the obvious things have been checked and the battery cranks the engine over rapidly and is not lethargic. I have owned over 50 cars and have worked on most of them. All cars should be able to start down to 0 degrees F with no problem. Below 0, it depends. Even my old Diesels would start down to 0. If you can't resolve it, trade it in on a warm day. For the life of me I can't understand why no mechanics seem to know how the fuel injection system works on each individual car, as far as sequence of operation. It seems like all they can do is hook a computer up to it, read the codes, and replace parts. Very frustrating! I had a brand new Cavalier that would flood out every time it sat all day in the sun but no one could figure it out. On cloudy days it would start right up. Anyway, good luck.
How do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?
I have a 2002 mustang and first of all the check engine light is on. When i first start it and start driving the CEL is solid, but after a few miles it starts blinking. Also it starts shaking as soon as i crank it, but stops if its rev'd up to 3000rpms or more, then when i drive it doesnt have much power and kind of feels like pressure is built up. Also it doesnt change gears when it should, usually around 4500rpms, and when it does shift it jumps pretty hard. And the longer i drive it, it feels like it loses more power and feels like more pressure is built up! Could clogged catalytic converters cause all of that?How do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?If your converters are clogged you will smell a sulfur like oder and loose power but that will not cause shaking. Also the exhaust will turn red in front of the converter. It sounds more like a torque converter problem.Start by checking your transmission fluid. Start the car and shift it through the gears.Allow the fluid to warm up and with the car running check the level on the dipstick. You should also note the color of the fluid. It should appear red in color.If it is brown the fluid is burnt and will not lubricate properly.How do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?the only way of finding out is to have it put on a diagnostics machineHow do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?get the computer error codes read.How do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?almost sounds like your transmission is going outHow do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?If there is the smell of rotten eggs then your catalytic converter is malfunctioning but you should get the engine checked if your check engine light is on. It may be a simple computer fix but it can be something more serious.How do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?the shifting problem is your transmission. i suggest getting it rebuilt.How do i know if my catalytic converters are stopped up?like ed said the cat and pipes can get red hot, you will feel excessive heat i mean real hot and often there will be material clanging around in the cat.advice around girls web server software
How do I change the Transmission Fluid on a 96 2.4L Dodge Stratus?
I actually know how to change the transmission fluid but the real question that I have is do I need to put in a new filter and gasket. I got the car right before winter ended with a new used transmission in it. I drove it until now which is september and put probably under 10,000 mi on it. About a month ago I had a transmission slip so I put some fluid in it (around a half of a quart) and it has shifted great ever since. Here is the problem, the fluid that I put in the car was Dextron 111 which I now know is a big NO. At the time I didnt know this. I recently have had an error code 72 come up which either means catalytic converter failure or the transmission will go out. This is why I want to Change out the fluid before something bad happens. With so few miles on it do I have to change the filter and gasket? Also how many quarts of fluid...I heard that it is around 10How do I change the Transmission Fluid on a 96 2.4L Dodge Stratus?Total fluid Replacement will take that trans a long way, as anyone will tell you, heat kills. this is especially important with the 41TE automatic transaxle. The fluid tends to break down rapidly and will cause issues with seals and clutches, especially in the torque converter.
It's good practice to replace the filter at least every 60K miles.
After replacing filter (some residue is normal, be suspicious of metalic debris). reseal the pan (some have reusable gaskets) fill the trans and drive it a few miles to bring the trans to operating temp.
Then disconnect the cooler lines and purge the trans of the remaining fluid, while adding fluid thru the dipstick, to maintain a supply for the pump to operate. after you have added and recovered about 6-7 quarts(the more the better), shut the engine off and reconnect the lines, refill the trans and your done. This replaces 99% of the fluid and is exactly what the dealership or shop will do, (except they use a pump to supply the trans with fresh fluid thru the disconnected cooler line)How do I change the Transmission Fluid on a 96 2.4L Dodge Stratus?4 quarts since you just change what is in the pan,also the filter when pan is off,it is cheap so just replace it.How do I change the Transmission Fluid on a 96 2.4L Dodge Stratus?if you let that one drain for a while you need to have 5 quarts on hand when you change that, or you may find it to be a little low,and change the filter on it their not that expensive to replace,never drop a pan and not change the filter on it,your only asking for problems if you do that,good luck.
It's good practice to replace the filter at least every 60K miles.
After replacing filter (some residue is normal, be suspicious of metalic debris). reseal the pan (some have reusable gaskets) fill the trans and drive it a few miles to bring the trans to operating temp.
Then disconnect the cooler lines and purge the trans of the remaining fluid, while adding fluid thru the dipstick, to maintain a supply for the pump to operate. after you have added and recovered about 6-7 quarts(the more the better), shut the engine off and reconnect the lines, refill the trans and your done. This replaces 99% of the fluid and is exactly what the dealership or shop will do, (except they use a pump to supply the trans with fresh fluid thru the disconnected cooler line)How do I change the Transmission Fluid on a 96 2.4L Dodge Stratus?4 quarts since you just change what is in the pan,also the filter when pan is off,it is cheap so just replace it.How do I change the Transmission Fluid on a 96 2.4L Dodge Stratus?if you let that one drain for a while you need to have 5 quarts on hand when you change that, or you may find it to be a little low,and change the filter on it their not that expensive to replace,never drop a pan and not change the filter on it,your only asking for problems if you do that,good luck.
My mechanic tells me i need a "smoke" test to determine why the scanner several times gives an Evap leak resul?
how does a smoke test work and does it check the muffler (catalytic converter). i've had two Evap valves changed different ones (2 types). and the check engine soon light still goes on after i drive hard. it's an 03 Altima.My mechanic tells me i need a %26quot;smoke%26quot; test to determine why the scanner several times gives an Evap leak resul?Basically he is going to hook up a machine that puts %26quot;smoke%26quot; into your EVAP system. This is basically the system connected to your gas tank for emission reasons. This %26quot;smoke%26quot; will come out where you have a leak causing your check engine light to come on.
So basically, it does NOT check your exhaust system (catalytic converter or muffler).
So basically, it does NOT check your exhaust system (catalytic converter or muffler).
On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?
I have a 1999 Chevy Malibu with the check engine light on. The codes read out as a faulty O2 sensor downstream of the catalytic converter.
Once I clear the error state, is there anything specific I need to do to flush out the codes from the onboard computer and make the light go out?
On the other question, how hard is this type of thing to change? The diagrams make it look like it mounts directly to the exhaust pipe ,. with the other end of the cable going to places unknown.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait 30 minutes reconnect. This should clear the computer memory and the light will go off.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?Flood the engine Rod? Are your fuel injectors gonna spray every time you step on gas? You think so?On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?If u live near a Auto Zone,auto parts they will do a diagnostic for free,and if u replaced any parts that are listed in the read out they'll reset this for free!hope this helps,good luck,unpluging your battery might cause u to lose your radio,might lock the stereo,then you'll need the code to reset the stereo!On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?you will have to fix the problem or the light will come back on. but yo can clear it now by looking in your owners manual, it will tell you what to do to turn it off or you can take it to an auto part store like auto zone and they will clear it for free.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?can only erase codes with tech 2 cant disconnect batteryu anymore to erase codesOn a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?Don't disconnect your battery to remove codes, and don't do that other thing about turning yout key and pumping your gas, as all that will accomplish is you are turning your key and pumping your gas pedal. If you disconnect the battery, you might find yourself being towed to the dealer to get the light turned off, and your radio and anti-theft reset. You will have to go to a dealer to get it turned off, or you can be towed to the dealer to have it turned off and have everything reset, if you disconnect your battery. It isn't that easy anymore.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?This works with the '06 model for sure.
Step one: turn the key as far to the right as you can without turning the vehicle on.
Step two: press the gas pedal to the floor and immediately release and repeat it. Don't do it more than 4 or 5 times because you'll flood the engine.
Step three: take the key out and wait for a moment.
Step four: turn the vehicle on.
That should do it.
Once I clear the error state, is there anything specific I need to do to flush out the codes from the onboard computer and make the light go out?
On the other question, how hard is this type of thing to change? The diagrams make it look like it mounts directly to the exhaust pipe ,. with the other end of the cable going to places unknown.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait 30 minutes reconnect. This should clear the computer memory and the light will go off.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?Flood the engine Rod? Are your fuel injectors gonna spray every time you step on gas? You think so?On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?If u live near a Auto Zone,auto parts they will do a diagnostic for free,and if u replaced any parts that are listed in the read out they'll reset this for free!hope this helps,good luck,unpluging your battery might cause u to lose your radio,might lock the stereo,then you'll need the code to reset the stereo!On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?you will have to fix the problem or the light will come back on. but yo can clear it now by looking in your owners manual, it will tell you what to do to turn it off or you can take it to an auto part store like auto zone and they will clear it for free.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?can only erase codes with tech 2 cant disconnect batteryu anymore to erase codesOn a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?Don't disconnect your battery to remove codes, and don't do that other thing about turning yout key and pumping your gas, as all that will accomplish is you are turning your key and pumping your gas pedal. If you disconnect the battery, you might find yourself being towed to the dealer to get the light turned off, and your radio and anti-theft reset. You will have to go to a dealer to get it turned off, or you can be towed to the dealer to have it turned off and have everything reset, if you disconnect your battery. It isn't that easy anymore.On a 1999 Chevy Malibu, how do you clear the check engine light once the source problem has been fixed?This works with the '06 model for sure.
Step one: turn the key as far to the right as you can without turning the vehicle on.
Step two: press the gas pedal to the floor and immediately release and repeat it. Don't do it more than 4 or 5 times because you'll flood the engine.
Step three: take the key out and wait for a moment.
Step four: turn the vehicle on.
That should do it.
How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?
My ses light had been coming on for about the last year. Every time I would have it diagnosed, the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors would come up. I have had them both changed three times. I went to Autozone and had them erase the trouble code. The light went off, but then came back on the same day. It then went off again the next day. The light had been off ever since until I got my oil changed yesterday. It came on during my ride home. What could the problem be, and how could I reset the light?How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?(Check Engine Light)
There are many components that work together in the engine to maintain optimal engine performance and economy.
A service engine soon, or check engine light indicates that there is a sensor that is reading a condition that is %26quot;out of range%26quot;.
Simply resetting the light does not solve the initial cause of the problem.
Replacing a number of parts trying to troubleshoot the problem in the hopes of getting the light to stay off is a tremendous waste of time and money.
The simplest, and most economical way to alleviate your issue, is to have an engine diagnostic done by a reputable shop to determine what caused the computer to signal you to begin with. Just reading the computer codes may not find the %26quot;cause%26quot;.
That being said, if per-chance you feel the need to reset the light in the hopes that it was a %26quot;glitch%26quot; of some kind, you could disconnect the negative battery terminal for a couple of minutes to clear the check engine light.
O2 Sensor? Probably NOT the problem.
People like to blame the O2 sensor for the problem because that's where the computer fault appears.
However, nine times out of ten, it's not faulty. It is simply reading a condition in the engine that is causing it to send a signal to the computer that there is a fault in the exhaust emissions mixture.
A fouled spark plug, loose spark plug wire, a vacuum leak, dirty injectors, EGR valve, weak fuel pump, dirty fuel filter, weak ignition coil, plugged air filter, on and on, can all cause the O2 sensor to register a fault code.
Before you yank the O2 sensor and replace it, check the basics first. Otherwise, you could have wasted time and money on the result, not the cause.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?The dealership or Jiffy Lube has to reset it after you get it serviced.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?Mr. Know is correct. Something else is causing the O2 sensors and catalytic converters to fail, and you are not searching for the problem. Mr. Know listed many possible causes. Before you replace a catalytic converter that failed prematurely, you need to find out what caused it to fail, and fix that problem first. Otherwise, you're going to keep having problems - failing sensors and converters.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?i would probably go to the dealer catalytic converters are under warranty...um also you can simply disconect your battery for a couple minutes. i would actually go to a different mechanic to diagnose.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?more than likely the problem will never cease...my advice to u is disconnect the fuse connecting that sensor
There are many components that work together in the engine to maintain optimal engine performance and economy.
A service engine soon, or check engine light indicates that there is a sensor that is reading a condition that is %26quot;out of range%26quot;.
Simply resetting the light does not solve the initial cause of the problem.
Replacing a number of parts trying to troubleshoot the problem in the hopes of getting the light to stay off is a tremendous waste of time and money.
The simplest, and most economical way to alleviate your issue, is to have an engine diagnostic done by a reputable shop to determine what caused the computer to signal you to begin with. Just reading the computer codes may not find the %26quot;cause%26quot;.
That being said, if per-chance you feel the need to reset the light in the hopes that it was a %26quot;glitch%26quot; of some kind, you could disconnect the negative battery terminal for a couple of minutes to clear the check engine light.
O2 Sensor? Probably NOT the problem.
People like to blame the O2 sensor for the problem because that's where the computer fault appears.
However, nine times out of ten, it's not faulty. It is simply reading a condition in the engine that is causing it to send a signal to the computer that there is a fault in the exhaust emissions mixture.
A fouled spark plug, loose spark plug wire, a vacuum leak, dirty injectors, EGR valve, weak fuel pump, dirty fuel filter, weak ignition coil, plugged air filter, on and on, can all cause the O2 sensor to register a fault code.
Before you yank the O2 sensor and replace it, check the basics first. Otherwise, you could have wasted time and money on the result, not the cause.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?The dealership or Jiffy Lube has to reset it after you get it serviced.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?Mr. Know is correct. Something else is causing the O2 sensors and catalytic converters to fail, and you are not searching for the problem. Mr. Know listed many possible causes. Before you replace a catalytic converter that failed prematurely, you need to find out what caused it to fail, and fix that problem first. Otherwise, you're going to keep having problems - failing sensors and converters.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?i would probably go to the dealer catalytic converters are under warranty...um also you can simply disconect your battery for a couple minutes. i would actually go to a different mechanic to diagnose.How do I reset the service engine soon light on a 2002 grand am?more than likely the problem will never cease...my advice to u is disconnect the fuse connecting that sensor
How to test a coil pack?
I know that I can put a spark plug into the ends of the wires and see if there is a spark, my question is can I do all of this while the engine is running? Will I get shocked? Can this cause problems with gas accumulating in the cylinders? Will I mess up my catalytic converter? I have a bad misfire and I have already changed out the plugs and wires to no avail. Any advice?How to test a coil pack?Unless you have the proper tools then no it is not advisable to ply with the HT leads while the car is running.
What make, year and model car have you got?How to test a coil pack?I have already tested my coil pack by just pulling the leads off the pack while it was running. I noticed a spark on all of them so I know my coil pack is working fine. Your answer is not really an answer I am only sorry I didn't vote it out in time, I have been so busy.
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What make, year and model car have you got?How to test a coil pack?I have already tested my coil pack by just pulling the leads off the pack while it was running. I noticed a spark on all of them so I know my coil pack is working fine. Your answer is not really an answer I am only sorry I didn't vote it out in time, I have been so busy.
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How to test a coil pack?what about the moduleReport Abuse
How to test a coil pack?driving to workshopHow to test a coil pack?to check the coilpack ..just get a test light ground it some where on the block then press the the test light on the head of each wire at the coilpack.. you should hear a change in the way the car idles..if you get to one of the wires and the idle does not change.. that is the cylinder that is giving you the problem.but it could be dead cylinder and not the coil packHow to test a coil pack?Pull the end of a spark plug wire off the spark plug (leave it attached at the coil pack). Use a %26quot;safety%26quot; screwdriver, one with a rubber or plastic handle cover. DO NOT TOUCH THE METAL PART OF THE SCREWDRIVER!! Put the screwdriver in the unattached end of the plug wire, and hold the rest of the screwdriver near a metal surface. Have a friend crank the engine over and see if sparks jump from the screwdriver and the metal it's close to. Yellow sparks may mean a weak coil pack, or a bad plug wire. Blue sparks should mean everything is ok... I'ts a little risky (getting shocked), but as long as you don't touch the metal part of the screwdriver, you should be fine.How to test a coil pack?make sure you choose the correct screw driver. THere is a different voltage rating for every driver even though its protected by rubber. If the insulation is not good. You still will get a nasty shock.:)
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