I have a manual 2002 VW Golf with approx. 145,000 miles on it. This is my first tune-up (I know, I know!) I had my timing belt and water pump replaced at around 120k and I replaced my battery at around 110k. I do regular oil changes.
Some other things I need:
-New catalytic converter (but it's so expensive so that might have to wait.)
-My window fell into the door panel and according to the dealership, my car is 6 months past the recall allowance for that defective part and they want to charge me $380 +tax. I call shenanigans.
Thanks for the help.How much should a tune-up cost?A tune up is minor repair and can be done easily with just a few tools readily available from any hardware store. The price of spark plugs range from 1.50-10.00 per cylinder depending on how much performance you would like. Spark plug wires cost from 50-150.00 once again depending on performance needs. If you have coil packs or a distributor the cost will vary from 10-100.00. The O2 sensor is usually about 20-50.00. The average person can get away with the regular parts resulting in a tune up cost of 100-200 dollars taking about 1-3 hours to complete.
The local Advance Auto and Autozones are your friends!How much should a tune-up cost?What i do is call all the nearest shops around me and get quotes on whatever i need done, then choose the one with the lower labor rate. Hope this helps!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
What would cause my car to lose power?
Ok I already know that my 91 VW Jetta GL needs an exhaust manifold replaced, and I am wondering if that would cause it to lose power at 2500 rpms? It will be going just fine then if I let it get above or at 2500 rpms it just bogs down, and will not gain speed no matter how much gas I give it, the CEL comes on most times when this happens, but if I push the clutch in and rev it past 2500 to like 3000 rpms the light goes off, but still lacks power. I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleaned intake, ran injector cleaner, changed fuel filter. I even replaced the catalytic converter, to no avail. I just bought car the car, and drove it 75 miles to get home, and this problem never arose, it did surge a little but never lost power like this. If any one can give me a few things to look into I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What would cause my car to lose power?It could be your Crankshaft sensor%26quot;..it happened to me and drove me crazy
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What would cause my car to lose power?It could be your Crankshaft sensor%26quot;..it happened to me and drove me crazy
What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?
Ok I already know that my 91 VW Jetta GL needs an exhaust manifold replaced, and I am wondering if that would cause it to lose power at 2500 rpms? It will be going just fine then if I let it get above or at 2500 rpms it just bogs down, and will not gain speed no matter how much gas I give it, the CEL comes on most times when this happens, but if I push the clutch in and rev it past 2500 to like 3000 rpms the light goes off, but still lacks power. I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleaned intake, ran injector cleaner, changed fuel filter. I even replaced the catalytic converter, to no avail. I just bought car the car, and drove it 75 miles to get home, and this problem never arose, it did surge a little but never lost power like this. If any one can give me a few things to look into I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Good Jokes, Cars, and Great Sex all depend on Proper timing.
If you haven't timed your car then do so now.
To time the 91 you have to have the engine up to temp.
then using a timing light on number one plug.
unplug the CTS sensor (blue one on the side of the head upper water outlet flange) and rev the engie 3 times over 3000 rmp.
Holding it steady at 2250 RPM, then adjust the timing to 6degrees BTDC. (there is a timing hole in the transmission housing.
I would then replace the CTS sensor (cheap at Napa ) as that is known to cause issues. If you haven't replace the fuel filter now would be a good time to do it.
If you head a whine from the rear passenger side wheel arch when this happens, then you have a restriction in the fuel as in the in-tank fuel pump (also known as the fuel-transfer-pump) is going out or gone out, and causing a restriction to the main pump.
This year of jetta has 3 fuel pumps one in-tank, that feeds to the primary.
I would also highly suggest that you remove the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to the fuel pressure regulator (on the rear of the throttle body) and see if there is raw gas in it. That is gas that drips out of the hose, if there is then the Fuel pressure regulator is bad.
I would also strongly recommend that you replace all the vacuum hoses on the car as any slight leak causes them to act the ***.
Lastly, make sure that the big black hose from the air filter box to the throttle body is not wholed, and that it is tight to the throttle body and to the airbox.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?It's the manifold. Why did you throw parts at it, when you know it is the manifold? Also, you should have had the seller have the manifold repaired/replaced prior to purchase.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I'd take it to a mechanicWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?You already know it needs an exhaust manifold? How do you know this. I think you are mistaken or foolish. Have you had the CEL scanned for a code????? Yeah, there is a lot of data missing here. Still could be other stuff.
Timing, Mass Airflow Sensor, Badd parts in the ignition(out of the box or installed poorly) Plugged muffler from a FAILED catalytic converter.
Time to go to a shop. Pretty much any shop can work on these so skip the VW Dealer.
Jack, 2003 GLI, VW since 1959, ASE Cert Auto Tech since 1978What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I think it's fairly obvious why the previous owner sold it , the last time I heard of this , the cam belt had been replaced three teeth out from where it should have been, why do you think the exhaust manifold needs replacing? any problem with it would be very obviousWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Your VW is to old, visit mechanic.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Wow Justin!! Without more info about the motor, type of fuel injection, etc, I would not be able to be of much help.
However, the bogging down could be caused by a fuel restriction of sorts. In SA, we had the mk2 in 91 still and they came with motronic injection. Low fuel pressure compared to the older K jetronic system.
My suggestion would be to get it to a good honest mechanic and let him take a look. To many things have been replaced now and nothing has changed. The manifold won't affect it as drastically as this.
Standing does a fuel injection no good at all and they are difficult to understand if you are not experienced..
Good luck.
hedley.suckow@gmail.com
Another thing, the car did set for a year with a full tank of gas in it, but I used most of that up and put fresh gas in it.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Good Jokes, Cars, and Great Sex all depend on Proper timing.
If you haven't timed your car then do so now.
To time the 91 you have to have the engine up to temp.
then using a timing light on number one plug.
unplug the CTS sensor (blue one on the side of the head upper water outlet flange) and rev the engie 3 times over 3000 rmp.
Holding it steady at 2250 RPM, then adjust the timing to 6degrees BTDC. (there is a timing hole in the transmission housing.
I would then replace the CTS sensor (cheap at Napa ) as that is known to cause issues. If you haven't replace the fuel filter now would be a good time to do it.
If you head a whine from the rear passenger side wheel arch when this happens, then you have a restriction in the fuel as in the in-tank fuel pump (also known as the fuel-transfer-pump) is going out or gone out, and causing a restriction to the main pump.
This year of jetta has 3 fuel pumps one in-tank, that feeds to the primary.
I would also highly suggest that you remove the vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to the fuel pressure regulator (on the rear of the throttle body) and see if there is raw gas in it. That is gas that drips out of the hose, if there is then the Fuel pressure regulator is bad.
I would also strongly recommend that you replace all the vacuum hoses on the car as any slight leak causes them to act the ***.
Lastly, make sure that the big black hose from the air filter box to the throttle body is not wholed, and that it is tight to the throttle body and to the airbox.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?It's the manifold. Why did you throw parts at it, when you know it is the manifold? Also, you should have had the seller have the manifold repaired/replaced prior to purchase.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I'd take it to a mechanicWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?You already know it needs an exhaust manifold? How do you know this. I think you are mistaken or foolish. Have you had the CEL scanned for a code????? Yeah, there is a lot of data missing here. Still could be other stuff.
Timing, Mass Airflow Sensor, Badd parts in the ignition(out of the box or installed poorly) Plugged muffler from a FAILED catalytic converter.
Time to go to a shop. Pretty much any shop can work on these so skip the VW Dealer.
Jack, 2003 GLI, VW since 1959, ASE Cert Auto Tech since 1978What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?I think it's fairly obvious why the previous owner sold it , the last time I heard of this , the cam belt had been replaced three teeth out from where it should have been, why do you think the exhaust manifold needs replacing? any problem with it would be very obviousWhat could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Your VW is to old, visit mechanic.What could be causing my 1991 Volkswagen Jetta GL to be losing power like this?Wow Justin!! Without more info about the motor, type of fuel injection, etc, I would not be able to be of much help.
However, the bogging down could be caused by a fuel restriction of sorts. In SA, we had the mk2 in 91 still and they came with motronic injection. Low fuel pressure compared to the older K jetronic system.
My suggestion would be to get it to a good honest mechanic and let him take a look. To many things have been replaced now and nothing has changed. The manifold won't affect it as drastically as this.
Standing does a fuel injection no good at all and they are difficult to understand if you are not experienced..
Good luck.
hedley.suckow@gmail.com
Smog test Question?
I have a 2005 model car, it's first smog check is due soon, so I called the smog check place and they told me it will be $60 plus parts,I told them the car has been serviced reguarly and has only 9000 miles on it, what parts do I need for a smog check.
They told me I need several parts but not to worry as they have them all in stock for my car, so I asked what parts I would need and how much will they cost.
The man said that I will need a new Catalytic converter and I will need all the filters and oil changed plus several other micelanious parts that should not cost more than $20 but they could not say for sure until they inspect the vehicle, I told him the oil and filter were changed less than a week ago and he replied that it needs to be changed again for a smog check or it will fail, I also need a new Catalytic converter, he said it should be changed every 6 months and it has not been changed since the car was new 18 months ago.He also said I need new spark plugs etc. am I being rSmog test Question?go somewhere else. You dont need any parts for smog check. Its a good idea to to get a oil change but since you already did it you dont need to do it agian. Catalytic converter alone will cost way more than $20. Iv got a car with 130,000 miles with the orginal catalytic converter so I doubt yours need to be changed. Call another place to get your smog check done.Smog test Question?the guy is blowing smoke up your a s s to get as much money out of you as possible. go to a different shop and don't get any part put on it you don't need anything replaced unless its going bad.Smog test Question?too longSmog test Question?THE GUY IS RIPPING YOU OFF. TAKE THE CAR SOMEPLACE ELSESmog test Question?check out other placesSmog test Question?SCAM ALERT. Keep shopping elswhere.
They told me I need several parts but not to worry as they have them all in stock for my car, so I asked what parts I would need and how much will they cost.
The man said that I will need a new Catalytic converter and I will need all the filters and oil changed plus several other micelanious parts that should not cost more than $20 but they could not say for sure until they inspect the vehicle, I told him the oil and filter were changed less than a week ago and he replied that it needs to be changed again for a smog check or it will fail, I also need a new Catalytic converter, he said it should be changed every 6 months and it has not been changed since the car was new 18 months ago.He also said I need new spark plugs etc. am I being rSmog test Question?go somewhere else. You dont need any parts for smog check. Its a good idea to to get a oil change but since you already did it you dont need to do it agian. Catalytic converter alone will cost way more than $20. Iv got a car with 130,000 miles with the orginal catalytic converter so I doubt yours need to be changed. Call another place to get your smog check done.Smog test Question?the guy is blowing smoke up your a s s to get as much money out of you as possible. go to a different shop and don't get any part put on it you don't need anything replaced unless its going bad.Smog test Question?too longSmog test Question?THE GUY IS RIPPING YOU OFF. TAKE THE CAR SOMEPLACE ELSESmog test Question?check out other placesSmog test Question?SCAM ALERT. Keep shopping elswhere.
How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?
I have just acquired a 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
Researching around, I have learned that these American-spec models were very unfavorable due to U.S. emission standards.
A few questions...
Can I replace the current carberater with one that will yeild higher performance?
Could I easily add/make a better air intake (like a K%26amp;N cone filter etc.)?
Would removing the Catalytic Converter be worth it?
Can I change the compression ratio from 7.5:1 to 8:1(english standard)?
The current issue with the car is the main bearings. Any information, help, or recommendations would be appreciated.
Don't tell me to junk it or sell it. I know what I am getting into.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?Kas Kasner is the person who can get the most out of a Triumph engine. Check his website out:
http://www.kaskastner.com/
This will get you started.
I would keep your compression the same and research a small supercharger system for your car.
Headers of course.
This site can help you with this:
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Links.htm
http://www.visn2.com/1500_Performace_Reb
I envy you man, you'll have a blast with this.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/pHow can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?You could switch to a Weber 32/36 DGV carb which if nothing else will be more reliable than the crappy Solex carb the car came with. I think these are still made - it's been a while since I was active in the British automotive relics scene.
Headers and a good exhaust are also easy bolt-on upgrades.
The extreme of course would be to find a GT-6 with a good chassis and motor, take the body off and bolt your Spit body onto the GT-6 frame. Then you get a nice in-line 6 cylinder and a better rear suspension.
Or you can do a Mazda Rotary Engine conversion as was done by Grassroots Motorsport magazine about a dozen years ago.
At any rate Moss Motors is the king of old British car performance and replacement parts in the U.S. Their on-line catalog should get you started.cute myspace Cats
Researching around, I have learned that these American-spec models were very unfavorable due to U.S. emission standards.
A few questions...
Can I replace the current carberater with one that will yeild higher performance?
Could I easily add/make a better air intake (like a K%26amp;N cone filter etc.)?
Would removing the Catalytic Converter be worth it?
Can I change the compression ratio from 7.5:1 to 8:1(english standard)?
The current issue with the car is the main bearings. Any information, help, or recommendations would be appreciated.
Don't tell me to junk it or sell it. I know what I am getting into.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?Kas Kasner is the person who can get the most out of a Triumph engine. Check his website out:
http://www.kaskastner.com/
This will get you started.
I would keep your compression the same and research a small supercharger system for your car.
Headers of course.
This site can help you with this:
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Links.htm
http://www.visn2.com/1500_Performace_Reb
I envy you man, you'll have a blast with this.How can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/pHow can I increase Performance on my 1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500?You could switch to a Weber 32/36 DGV carb which if nothing else will be more reliable than the crappy Solex carb the car came with. I think these are still made - it's been a while since I was active in the British automotive relics scene.
Headers and a good exhaust are also easy bolt-on upgrades.
The extreme of course would be to find a GT-6 with a good chassis and motor, take the body off and bolt your Spit body onto the GT-6 frame. Then you get a nice in-line 6 cylinder and a better rear suspension.
Or you can do a Mazda Rotary Engine conversion as was done by Grassroots Motorsport magazine about a dozen years ago.
At any rate Moss Motors is the king of old British car performance and replacement parts in the U.S. Their on-line catalog should get you started.
I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?
It started a little over a month ago, it just started cutting out, i first ran some lucus fuel treatment in it thinking maybe my injectors were dirty, then i put new plugs and wires in it, still had the same problem, well, I then went to the timing and changed the timing belt, still, so i had o'riellys test the ignition module, they said it was good, so i replaced, the crank position sensor, the coil pack, and still have the same problem. I loosened the catalytic converter, and that didnt help, then i changed the O2 sensor and still no help, i have changed and fuel filter and tested my fuel pressure, fuel pressure is good, so i have no idea were to check next, I rented a scan tool from O'riellys, and that was the reason i changed to O2 sensor, but it didnt say anything else. I have no idea were to start next, can anybody help?I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?Try adding a thing of dry gas or gasline antifreeze to the tank the next time you fill up.
I owned an early 90's escort that would sputter and stop and slow down anytime the weather was cool/cold or damp/wet. Piece of American made crap.
Anyway, adding a bottle of gasline antifreeze stopped the problems until I finally blew the damn thing up.
Good luckI have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?try changing out the idle air intake valve
about 10 bucks
always start small then work your way up
if this is bad it will cause you car to just cut out at lights etc...I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?check for bad ground wires around the battery area.they become corroded and damage . look for cracked air intake hose. remove idle speed control valve and look for carbon deposit build-up. if the inside shaft is shiney on one side,it is binding( replace it)I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?Need a little more info. Has the idle control sensor been replaced on it? It sounds like you are going to have a new car by the time your done. Two other things that could be causing this are a bad camshaft or a clogged catalytic converter. It sounds like you've replaced about everything else on it.
I owned an early 90's escort that would sputter and stop and slow down anytime the weather was cool/cold or damp/wet. Piece of American made crap.
Anyway, adding a bottle of gasline antifreeze stopped the problems until I finally blew the damn thing up.
Good luckI have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?try changing out the idle air intake valve
about 10 bucks
always start small then work your way up
if this is bad it will cause you car to just cut out at lights etc...I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?check for bad ground wires around the battery area.they become corroded and damage . look for cracked air intake hose. remove idle speed control valve and look for carbon deposit build-up. if the inside shaft is shiney on one side,it is binding( replace it)I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?Need a little more info. Has the idle control sensor been replaced on it? It sounds like you are going to have a new car by the time your done. Two other things that could be causing this are a bad camshaft or a clogged catalytic converter. It sounds like you've replaced about everything else on it.
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?
1998 Cadillac 125,000 miles ( NOTE: I changed the Platinum sparkplugs at 100,000 miles and the car runs very smooth, no rough idling, or misfires, no other error codes). Also there is no funny smell. Someone told me that if I smell fuel or a rotten egg smell, then the cat is bad for sure.
Only thing about this car.... when I drive my car (2002 Cadillac), the instant reading on the MPG will go from 25 MPG to 70 almost instantly when I let off the gas. BUT on my wife's car ( the one with the error code) when I let off the gas it take about 3 or 4 seconds for it to go from 25 MPG to 70. And same thing when I press on the gas... a 3 second delay. Maybe this is normal but I just thought I would mention it in case it is relevant.
About 50 days ago this error code came on. This was about 5 days after my wife backed the car into a snow bank. After reading up on it, I was so sure my wife damaged the muffler or tail pipe. I did not see anything, so figured it could be a fluke. I used the scan tool to clear the error code and it was fine for about 50 days. Now the code came up again.So what I am thinking is that for the most part it is barely running within the limits, but once in a blue moon it fall out of specs and causes the %26quot;check engine soon%26quot; P0420 code to come up. So I am tempted to change the o2 sensors in front and back of the catalytic converter.
BTW I did clear the code again and it's been fine for 3 days. BUT I preparing myself for it to pop up again and will need to take care of it.
1) Is this hard to do ? I am just concerned that the heat had rusted the threads together and when I try to remove the Sensor, the treads will strip. Is this a problem ? I know I need to warm up the engine first to get the exhaust warm, but not too hot.
2) what about the converter ? Is this hard to change ? I am pretty sure the bolts will break, but i am wondering about the %26quot;hose clamp%26quot; in the back. How do I make sure that is sealed when I put the new one on ? Is there a gasket on back part ? is it funneled so I just put the cat pipe into the opening of the exhaust pipe then just clamp it with the %26quot;hose%26quot; type clamp ?
I do work on cars, but it is mostly water pumps, brakes, alternators, CV axles, etc...
Is there a way to check and see if the sensors are working ? I have a voltmeter.
Also, what about the O2 sensors that are on the exhaust manifold.. do I change those too, or should I change the 2 that are on each side of the catalytic converter ?
One more question... Is this the same as changing a sparkplug ? just unplug the wire, and replace sensor, then plug wire back in ? No need to reprogram the PCU or have it %26quot;learn%26quot; the new readings ?P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?Alright there are a lot of questions here u hope i get them all. first. you need a new cat. sorry man no way around it. if it was the sensors then a sensor code would come up. unless so how all the o2 sensors went bad a the same time and if that was the case go buy a lottery ticket and u will be rich. your cat probably isn't too terrible if it takes a while for the light to come on, so feel free to try and get away with it as long as you can. the computer has to have three cases were the fault to happen in 3 differnt drive cycles for the light to come on.
O2 sensors are very easy to replace. u need a 22 mm wrench and that is about it. disconnect it and unscrew it. reverse to install. then ur done. no computers or anything. you can check o2 sensors with a volt meter but it wont tell ya much because the voltage is so low and you wont know what number it should be reading you need a scanner.
changing the cat shouldn't be to bad. i use the torch all the time with exhaust. get the metal around the bolt cherry red and remove the bolt. working it back and forth to loosen rust. if you don't have a torch or they just brake then drill out the bolt and use a nut and bolt to put it back together if it is nut and bolted to begin with then that's great brake it or just take it apart at for the other end the cat should slid over or in the exhaust tipe then you clamp it. put you hand over the tail pipe if it blows you hand off after a little then it is good. if it doesn't then plug it and see were it is leaking from.P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?This will not be of any use for your present problem but then it may! Aprox 18 years ago in the UK bosch brought out platinum plugs. a REP wanted me to use them in my garage when weserviced a car,I tried a set in my 1961 land rover,BRILL better startng slight better mpg .So i started using them for S/ing.
Afew weeks later a call from a V/good customer saying car would not start(p/plugs used on last service) Igrabed some plugs and went out to him.changed the plugs (NON plat werenow put in ) the car started first time. this happend several times over the next few months.(different cars).
A bosch plug that had been removed was was then looked at i cut the earth prong off and the platinum electrode could then beseen .it had worn back so that the gap was 2 or 3 times the amount it should be!! no codes were on cars then so !!!!???
Only thing about this car.... when I drive my car (2002 Cadillac), the instant reading on the MPG will go from 25 MPG to 70 almost instantly when I let off the gas. BUT on my wife's car ( the one with the error code) when I let off the gas it take about 3 or 4 seconds for it to go from 25 MPG to 70. And same thing when I press on the gas... a 3 second delay. Maybe this is normal but I just thought I would mention it in case it is relevant.
About 50 days ago this error code came on. This was about 5 days after my wife backed the car into a snow bank. After reading up on it, I was so sure my wife damaged the muffler or tail pipe. I did not see anything, so figured it could be a fluke. I used the scan tool to clear the error code and it was fine for about 50 days. Now the code came up again.So what I am thinking is that for the most part it is barely running within the limits, but once in a blue moon it fall out of specs and causes the %26quot;check engine soon%26quot; P0420 code to come up. So I am tempted to change the o2 sensors in front and back of the catalytic converter.
BTW I did clear the code again and it's been fine for 3 days. BUT I preparing myself for it to pop up again and will need to take care of it.
1) Is this hard to do ? I am just concerned that the heat had rusted the threads together and when I try to remove the Sensor, the treads will strip. Is this a problem ? I know I need to warm up the engine first to get the exhaust warm, but not too hot.
2) what about the converter ? Is this hard to change ? I am pretty sure the bolts will break, but i am wondering about the %26quot;hose clamp%26quot; in the back. How do I make sure that is sealed when I put the new one on ? Is there a gasket on back part ? is it funneled so I just put the cat pipe into the opening of the exhaust pipe then just clamp it with the %26quot;hose%26quot; type clamp ?
I do work on cars, but it is mostly water pumps, brakes, alternators, CV axles, etc...
Is there a way to check and see if the sensors are working ? I have a voltmeter.
Also, what about the O2 sensors that are on the exhaust manifold.. do I change those too, or should I change the 2 that are on each side of the catalytic converter ?
One more question... Is this the same as changing a sparkplug ? just unplug the wire, and replace sensor, then plug wire back in ? No need to reprogram the PCU or have it %26quot;learn%26quot; the new readings ?P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?Alright there are a lot of questions here u hope i get them all. first. you need a new cat. sorry man no way around it. if it was the sensors then a sensor code would come up. unless so how all the o2 sensors went bad a the same time and if that was the case go buy a lottery ticket and u will be rich. your cat probably isn't too terrible if it takes a while for the light to come on, so feel free to try and get away with it as long as you can. the computer has to have three cases were the fault to happen in 3 differnt drive cycles for the light to come on.
O2 sensors are very easy to replace. u need a 22 mm wrench and that is about it. disconnect it and unscrew it. reverse to install. then ur done. no computers or anything. you can check o2 sensors with a volt meter but it wont tell ya much because the voltage is so low and you wont know what number it should be reading you need a scanner.
changing the cat shouldn't be to bad. i use the torch all the time with exhaust. get the metal around the bolt cherry red and remove the bolt. working it back and forth to loosen rust. if you don't have a torch or they just brake then drill out the bolt and use a nut and bolt to put it back together if it is nut and bolted to begin with then that's great brake it or just take it apart at for the other end the cat should slid over or in the exhaust tipe then you clamp it. put you hand over the tail pipe if it blows you hand off after a little then it is good. if it doesn't then plug it and see were it is leaking from.P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold?This will not be of any use for your present problem but then it may! Aprox 18 years ago in the UK bosch brought out platinum plugs. a REP wanted me to use them in my garage when weserviced a car,I tried a set in my 1961 land rover,BRILL better startng slight better mpg .So i started using them for S/ing.
Afew weeks later a call from a V/good customer saying car would not start(p/plugs used on last service) Igrabed some plugs and went out to him.changed the plugs (NON plat werenow put in ) the car started first time. this happend several times over the next few months.(different cars).
A bosch plug that had been removed was was then looked at i cut the earth prong off and the platinum electrode could then beseen .it had worn back so that the gap was 2 or 3 times the amount it should be!! no codes were on cars then so !!!!???
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